“Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go”
Our world is full of incredible places, but the most breathtaking ones are usually the hardest to get to. I'm about to take you on a journey off the beaten path to a remote village in the north of Brazil called Barra Grande. Honestly, it can be an mission to get to - but keep reading and I'll tell you why it's worth the effort. Whether you're looking for a relaxing romantic getaway or a fun-filled vacation with your family or friends, Barra Grande will go far beyond all your expectations. And if you're searching for a kitesurfing paradise with perfect wind - this place should definitely be on your bucket list.
Keep reading to learn more about this secret spot in Barra Grande!
With a long stretch of hot sandy beaches, there is a ton of space for all your kitesurfing needs, whether you're just learning or are a pro. The mainly side-shore winds during high season, which runs from July to January, are quite steady, ranging from 20-30 knots (peaking at 40 in the afternoon especially Sept-Nov) and the water is mainly flat but there are waves to be found. If you're looking for a detail-oriented instructor, I highly recommend Reynaldo from KiteBliss, after just a couple of lessons with him I improved very quickly! There are many little spots along the beach to take breaks between sessions but our go-to hangout was Croa, a simple wooden hut that serves food & drinks. Between sessions I would indulge in a refreshing acai fruit bowl as I read a book in their shaded hammocks. After a good kite session don't forget to check out the variety of culinary delights of Barra Grande; whether its an upscale fusion at La Cozinha, authentic local delicacies at Bandoleiros, or typical Brazilian dishes at Manga Rosa. If you're craving some comfort food you can even get oven-baked thin-crust pizza at Pizzeria la Pizza - but remember we are in Brazil - so don't expect something you'd get on a piazza in Italy. On some nights you can catch some local Brazilian live music as you enjoy your dinner or a drink in the light evening breeze.
Getting to Barra Grande is a journey in itself; the most reliable way is to fly to Fortaleza, a 6-hour drive away. The most popular kitesurfing spots near the airport are Cumbuco and Jericoacoara; both were some of the earliest kitesurfing destinations in the region, and have become well-recognized spots in the kitesurfing community. That being said, if you are someone that prefers to avoid the crowds, it's worth driving a bit further to Barra Grande and its surroundings. We travelled there at the beginning of wind season and stayed a 5-min walk from the beach in a beautiful newly-built guest house appropriately called Casa Wayra (wayra is the word for wind in Quechua, the Andean language). There are two guest rooms with a spacious terrace where you can lounge in comfy hammocks surrounded by lush greenery. If you're lucky you can spot monkeys or a chameleon among the treetops. Leona and Bruno are amazing hosts - Leona makes delicious waffles or crepes for breakfast with homemade freshly-squeezed juice from mango, papaya, passion fruit or melons with ginger, mint or tapioca. Eating this feast in the shade of the cashew tree in the garden is the best way to start the morning and get some energy in before kiting! They are both avid kiters as well, so they will give you tips on all of the best spots to go to. They can even arrange for trips to go to other "secret" spots where there are no other kiters! (keep reading to find out more!)
If you want a change of kiting scenery, you can do a day trip to Macapa - or you can take advantage of the hosts' second property and rent it for the night. It's a simple private bungalow that sits right on the beach, and there's no wifi so it's a great excuse to get completely disconnected from the rest of the world. I highly recommend taking a walk on the beach during low tide - the water creates some really incredible patterns in the sand as it recedes into the ocean and you'll see some unusual scenes of fishing boats stranded in the sand. When the tide comes back in, grab your kite and you'll be able to catch some pretty good waves right off the shore. If waves are not your thing - stick to the tucked away lagoon for some nice flat water.
Is there anything more satisfying than kiting in a location that has been completely undiscovered by tourists? These places are hard to find, but Leona and Bruno know some "secret spots" that nearly nobody else knows about. One of these places is a serene fresh water lake that used to be filled with piranhas - but not to worry! - there are no more left there. To keep your mind at ease you'll probably see a few local fisherman working waist-deep in this shallow lake - so no need to worry about the carnivorous fish. Other than that, you'll have the flat waters all to yourself and you can enjoy the incredible views of the sand dunes that surround the lake. If you're advanced enough there is another location with even shallower waters - only about a foot! Driving through the thick forest of palm trees, you'd never expect to arrive to such a spacious untouched lagoon with shallow emerald waters (see video above). There, in some spots, you'll practically be skidding in the sand with your board. The dry earth and sands around both these secret spots create a surreal illusion that you're kiting in a desert oasis!
If you're an animal lover like myself, you'll be excited to hear that there are plenty of animals strolling around Barra Grande. You will most definitely run into some donkeys or cows strolling in the sandy streets of the village, usually accompanied by some adorable calves. If you have access to a bucket you can offer the donkeys some water and they'll let you pet them in return. Cows are a little more skittish so just give them their space when you see them on the streets and don't make sudden movements as they can get startled easily. There is also plenty of variety of wildlife ranging from birds to amphibians, from insects to shellfish.
If you need a break from kiting, take a stroll in the beautiful mangrove in the western-most part of the beach in Barre Grande. When the tide is low you can walk in the marshy earth and explore the exotic lush nature around you. At your feet you can search for tiny crabs that scurry into their hiding spots as soon as they see you or snails of various sizes speckling the beach. In the skies you can find a variety of fowl searching for their next meal. It's the perfect spot to meditate or to take a romantic walk on the beach (totally cliché but it's true!) If you'd rather stay on the water, you can kayak deeper into the mangroves and listen to the sounds of the wilderness around you.
If you want the best local guides to provide you with the greatest experience catered to your needs, I highly recommend staying at Casa Wayra. Bruno and Leona have decided to take their adventure spirit one step further and share some of their local know how with visitors. From fat-biking trails and kite trips to kayaking through the mangroves and even pilates classes with Leona, they can create an amazing trip, even for those who don't want to kite every day or those looking to travel between February and June when there is less wind.
Whether you're a kiter or an avid nature explorer, Barra Grande and its surroundings offers a variety of adventures for people of all ages and interests. With most of its nature still unexplored and untouched by humans, this is the place to go for a complete immersion in the tropical lifestyle of Brazil.
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- Gabi Opas a.k.a. Gabi Guide
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